• Create Your Own Summer Button-Front Top – Ashton Top Pattern Hack

    If you’ve been following along for a while, you’ll know that the Ashton Top by Helen’s Closet is one of my absolute favourite sewing patterns. I featured it in my Top 10 Summer Sewing Patterns post just a few weeks ago — and for good reason. It’s a beautiful, versatile pattern that I come back to again and again.

    But this time, I decided to switch things up a little. I’d been spotting so many gorgeous button-front tops on the high street lately — the kind that are cool and effortless — and it got me thinking about whether I could create something similar with a pattern I already own rather than buying something new.

    So that’s exactly what I did! In my latest YouTube video, I’m sharing a full pattern hack of the Ashton Top, transforming it into a High Street inspired summer top with a button-down front and a lowered neckline — all sewn up in the most beautiful white slub linen.

    What Is a Pattern Hack, and Should You Try One?

    If you’re new to pattern hacking, the idea is simply this: you take a pattern you already have and modify it to create something different. It sounds a bit scary, but it’s actually one of the most satisfying things you can do as a sewist. You already know the pattern fits, which means you can focus purely on the fun creative part!

    The Hack: What I Changed

    Starting from the standard Ashton Top, here’s what I did to create this new version:

    1. Lowered the neckline

    The original Ashton Top has a beautiful, clean faced or bound neckband. For this hack, I lowered the neckline slightly to create a more relaxed, summer-appropriate finish. In the video I show you exactly how to do this without losing the shape and structure of the original pattern.

    2. Drafted a button band

    This is the feature that really transforms the top into something that feels very different. I drafted a button band from scratch — and I promise it’s much more manageable than it sounds and I’ll take you through the whole process step by step.

    3. Bias bound the neckline and armholes

    Once the neckline was lowered, I finished it with bias binding rather than a facing. This gives a beautifully neat, minimal finish that works so well with the linen fabric. I also bias bound the armholes to match.

    4. Sewed a hem facing

    I love the faced hem of the original Ashton and I wanted to keep this for my new button up version and so I modified the original facing pattern piece to adapt to the new button band. A hem facing gives a really clean, professional result that sits beautifully and keeps the hem flat and the shape nice and boxy.

    The Fabric

    I used a gorgeous slub linen for this make — and it was perfect for this design. Linen is one of my favourite summer fabrics because it breathes so well, and the slub texture of this one adds a lovely natural character to it. It also presses beautifully, which is really helpful when you’re working with techniques like bias binding and button bands.

    I’ve linked a similar slub linen in the video description if you want to track something down!

    Watch the Full Video

    All of the steps above are explained in much more detail over on YouTube — this really is a project where seeing it done makes all the difference! Whether you want to follow along in real time or just get a feel for whether this hack is for you, head over to watch:

    And if you love a good pattern hack, you might also enjoy my other pattern hack videos — I have a whole playlist of them over on YouTube called ‘Sew the Look‘ which you can find linked in the video description!

    Have you ever hacked a pattern before? I’d love to know which one — drop it in the comments below! And if you give this hack a go, please do share a photo with me over on Instagram — I absolutely love seeing your makes!

    Happy sewing!

    Sally xx

  • My Top 10 Summer Sewing Patterns (For Every Level!)

    A few weeks ago I shared 10 summer sewing patterns over on Instagram — and honestly, the response absolutely floored me! It had thousands of views and thousands of saves, and I also had quite a few questions about fabric choices and sewing levels for each one. So I figured it was time to do a proper full video and blog post version!

    In today’s post (and YouTube video!), I’m talking you through all 10 patterns — sharing the sewing level, the types of fabrics that work well for each one and why, and who I think each pattern is best suited to. I really do think there’s something here for everyone, whether you’ve been sewing for six weeks or six years!

    *All sewing patterns are linked in the video description over on YouTube*

    The Top 10 Summer Sewing Patterns

    1. The Safiya Playsuit – Tilly and the Buttons (Make It Simple Book)

    My first pick is the Safiya Playsuit by Tilly and the Buttons, from the Make It Simple book. This is an easy-to-sew, easy-to-wear elasticated waist playsuit with a flat front, a faux wrap bodice with grown-on sleeves, and the option to sew it with either short or long legs. I whipped up a couple of these really last-minute before a hot holiday last year and honestly got so much wear out of them. There is something brilliant about a playsuit — you just throw it on and you’re good to go!

    Sewing level: Beginner. The Make It Simple book is designed with beginners in mind, and if you’re more experienced you can easily sew this in a couple of hours.

    Fabric: You can use a variety of fabrics here. My preference is something with a little drape — a floaty, swishy viscose or rayon gives a lovely result. If you want more structure and want to emphasise the A-line shape, try a cotton or linen. Cotton and linen are also much easier to sew if you’re a beginner, and they’re wonderfully breathable in hot weather too!

    2. The Almy Blouse – Stylearc

    I had to include the Almy Blouse by Stylearc because it’s just so floaty and cool to wear in hot weather. It’s a fully button-up blouse with a turn-under button band, bias-bound armholes, and a gorgeous flounce detail at the front that really elevates it. I absolutely love sewing this one — it’s such a pretty summer blouse.

    Sewing level: Intermediate. Stylearc patterns can be slightly vague in their instructions, but because the design is actually quite simple I think if you’ve sewn blouses before you’ll be fine. I do have a video of me sewing this blouse which I’ll link below if that helps!

    Fabric: This works beautifully in something with drape — I’ve sewn mine in a cotton lawn. You could also try a viscose, rayon, or crepe. A cotton or linen works too since the blouse’s flounce is cut on the bias, giving you that drapey effect with a slightly more structured feel.

    3. The Blanca Flight Suit – Closet Core Patterns

    The Blanca Flight Suit by Closet Core Patterns is probably one of my absolute favourite patterns to sew — it’s one you can really get your teeth into! It’s a fitted jumpsuit with a long zip at the front, contrast details at the back, and various sleeve and leg options. Like the playsuit, a flight suit is brilliant if you don’t like thinking too much about getting dressed — just throw it on!

    Sewing level: Intermediate to advanced. There are some trickier details that might not suit complete beginners.

    Fabric: You need a little structure here — something that can hold its own, fit a zip neatly, and give you crisp pockets and a sharp collar. Canvas, denim, and heavy linen all work beautifully. For my two versions I’ve used a gabardine and a cotton twill, and both felt soft and easy to wear with a little stretch. I have a full shorts version sew-along on Patreon if you fancy trying that variation too!

    4. Gathered Elasticated Waist Skirt – My Own Tutorial!

    This one is a little different because it’s actually my own tutorial from YouTube! I included it in that original Instagram post and was so delighted by the response. An easy elasticated waist gathered skirt with pockets is just such a perfect summer outfit option. Throw it on with a vest or a t-shirt and you’re done — comfortable, cool, and cute.

    Sewing level: Beginner-friendly. You don’t even need a pattern — just a few body measurements and your fabric! You could also leave out the lining and pockets for an even quicker make.

    Fabric: Anything goes! A floaty viscose, rayon, or crepe will give you a swishy skirt that hangs close to the body. A cotton, linen, or twill will give you a more structured, poofy skirt that stands away. Cotton is the easiest to sew so it’s a great choice if you’re a beginner working up to something more drapey.

    5. The Tyra Trousers – Ploen Patterns

    I’ll be honest — I almost feel embarrassed mentioning this pattern yet again because I talk about it so much! But I genuinely could not have a Top 10 summer sewing patterns post without including the Tyra Trousers by Ploen Patterns. I’ve sewn them more than 10 times and I’m even wearing a version in the video that runs alongside . They’re a super simple, easy-to-wear elasticated waist trouser with front pockets, available as a wide-leg palazzo or a shorter culotte style.

    Sewing level: Beginner. The elasticated waist makes them easy to fit, and if you’re more experienced you can sew them in a couple of hours.

    Fabric: I’ve sewn these from viscoses, linens, jersey, and even a light wool. For summer my preference is a floaty viscose or a viscose-linen blend — they feel slightly more structured and a little smarter but still have that airy, floaty feel. These trousers are the definition of secret pyjamas. When I put them on in the morning I literally feel like I’m swapping one pair of pyjamas for a smarter pair I can actually wear all day!

    6. The Ashton Top – Helen’s Closet

    The Ashton Top by Helen’s Closet is my favourite go-to pattern for a sleeveless, cropped, boxy top — perfect for summer. It’s fitted through the bust with bust darts and gently shapes out around the waist in an A-line. My favourite version is the fully faced finish, which really emphasises the beautiful boxy shape. There’s also a sleeve add-on pack if you want to mix things up!

    Sewing level: Advanced confident beginner. Some of the finishes — particularly the fully faced version — are more involved, but there are simpler bias binding options included in the pattern that make it more accessible.

    Fabric: This pattern is wonderfully versatile. A fabric with structure like linen will hold the shape beautifully. A viscose gives a softer, more fluid result. I have versions in both and they look and feel completely different — both gorgeous in their own way! If you’re a beginner, start with something structured and easy to handle.

    7. The Safiya Trousers – Tilly and the Buttons (Make It Simple Book)

    From the same pattern set as the Safiya Playsuit (pattern number one!), the Safiya Trousers by Tilly and the Buttons are a brilliant beginner-friendly option for a sleek, easy-to-wear summer trouser. The leg is slightly narrower than the Tyra Trousers, and there are no pockets to distort the silhouette. What makes them especially beginner-friendly is that the waistband is simply turned under as part of the trouser — so there are only two pattern pieces in total!

    Sewing level: Beginner (even more so than the Tyra Trousers!).

    Fabric: Again, anything you love! My favourite is a viscose-linen blend which I wear as a co-ord set with my Ashton Top. The linen adds a little structure while the viscose keeps things drapey and swishy. Lovely!

    8. The Evelyn Skirt – Chalk and Notch

    The Evelyn Skirt by Chalk and Notch is a really lovely, versatile summer skirt pattern. My favourite version is the midi length with a flat-front elasticated waist and a split in the leg — such a comfy, easy-breezy summer skirt, and a great alternative if you’re not keen on the more poofy gathered style. Because it’s straighter at the hem, I love to wear it with something oversized on top to balance out the look.

    Sewing level: Beginner-friendly. No tricky fastenings, easy fit, and it sews up quickly.

    Fabric: I’ve sewn mine in a floaty viscose and I’d say you do want some drape here — something too structured like a cotton poplin might feel stiff and difficult to move in. A viscose-linen blend would also be lovely. Think about how you want it to look and move before you choose!

    9. The Ogden Cami – True Bias

    A cult classic in the sewing community for good reason — the Ogden Cami by True Bias deserves its place on this list! It’s such a versatile piece for a handmade summer wardrobe, especially if you’re someone who likes to layer. Wear it on its own, under a shacket, or with any of the skirts and trousers mentioned above — it really goes with everything.

    Sewing level: Confident beginner. There are a few fiddly bits like the spaghetti straps and getting the lining in, but it’s very achievable once you have a few makes under your belt. If you’re a beginner I’d recommend practising in cotton first before moving on to slippery fabrics.

    Fabric: My preference is always a floaty viscose — it feels gorgeous against the skin and layers beautifully. Cotton works really nicely too, especially in the earlier stages of your Ogden-sewing journey! A cotton version will have a more structured A-line shape, while viscose gives that fluid, floaty finish.

    10. The Logan Shacket – Stylearc

    Last but definitely not least — the Logan Shacket by Stylearc. I love this pattern as much in winter as I do in summer, and in the warmer months it’s the perfect lightweight throw-over-everything shirt. It’s oversized and boxy with a back yoke, turned-under button bands, a collar on a stand, and straight sleeves — all of which make it much more approachable than a traditional tailored shirt.

    Sewing level: Advanced confident beginner. Stylearc instructions are minimal but the pattern is really well drafted, and I actually sewed this when I was quite new to sewing and found it manageable.

    Fabric: This works beautifully in so many fabrics — lightweight cottons, viscoses, denim, quilted fabrics, even a cotton voile. For summer I’d lean towards something lightweight. I sewed a cotton voile version last year that’s perfect for warm weather. It also makes a brilliant co-ord — I sewed a matching co-ord from this shirt and the Sophia Trousers sewn as shorts last year!

    Watch the Full Video

    Want to see more detail on each of these patterns (with all of the pattern links) and hear my thoughts in full? Head over to YouTube to watch the video — I go into even more depth on fabrics and styling ideas for each one!

    I really hope this has given you some inspiration for your summer sewing! Let me know in the comments which of these patterns would make your top 10 — or if there’s a summer sewing pattern you love that I haven’t included, I’d love to hear about it!

    Happy sewing!

    Sally xx

  • 4 Spring Sewing Projects to Build a Handmade Wardrobe (+ Outfit Ideas)

    There’s something about spring that makes me want to sew everything. Lighter fabrics, brighter mornings, the urge to actually leave the house in something I made myself it’s my favourite time of year to build out a handmade wardrobe. Plus, there’s not so much effort involved in getting dressed – you don’t (or at least shouldn’t) need so many layers…

    In my latest YouTube video, I share four brand new me-made pieces that I’ve been styling into real outfits. These are the kind of makes that earn their place in your wardrobe rotation and the best part? Most of them use patterns I already own.

    The 4 Spring Sewing Makes

    1. The ‘Sezane Style’ Stripe Sweater

    This one started as a bit of an experiment. I’d seen a beautiful Breton style top on the Sezane website and it inspired me to sew up something similar. To do this, I used the Jarrah Sweater by Megan Nielsen, a pattern I’ve made many times before and absolutely love (it’s also perfect for beginners by the way). To get the look, I made a few changes to the original pattern design and used a stripe French terry. The stripe adds that seasonally on-trend feel and the fabric is just the right weight for those in-between spring days when you can’t quite commit to losing a layer.

    I challenged myself to sew this top in just two hours and if you want a peek at the sewing process, I shared a YouTube Short while I was making it which you can watch here if you fancy.

    Pattern: Jarrah Sweater Megan Nielsen
    Fabric: Stripe French Terry Selfmade

    2. The Denim Shirt

    A denim shirt is an absolute essential in my opinion and this one replaces an older make which has been worn to death. I find shirts the perfect layering piece for a handmade wardrobe, worn open over a dress, tucked into a skirt (more on that in a second), or thrown over an Agnes Top or cami. My shirts are probably amongst the most worn garments in my wardrobe and are probably my favourite thing to sew too!

    I used the Archer Shirt by Grainline Studio in a chambray fabric that gives it that soft, worn-in feel without needing years of washing. I also filmed a full sew-along of the Archer on Patreon if you want the in-depth version.

    Pattern: Archer Shirt Grainline Studio
    Fabric: Similar Chambray linked here

    3. Protea Pants

    Oh how I love a good pair of wide legged trousers. The Protea Pants by Paradise Patterns are a chic, modern trouser pattern and I made mine in a light denim that feels relaxed enough for everyday wear but looks polished enough to style up too. I wear wide legged trousers all the time but usually in elasticated waist form so this tailored version feels like a bit of a wardrobe upgrade! I also filmed a full Protea Pants sew-along over on Patreon if you fancy sewing along with me.

    Pattern: Protea Pants Paradise Patterns
    Fabric: Similar light denim linked here
    Sew-along: Watch on Patreon

    4. Agnes Top

    Every wardrobe needs a go-to jersey top, and the Agnes Top by Tilly and the Buttons is exactly that. My go-to pattern for a fitted jersey top! I added this pretty scalloped edging around the neckline and sleeves which I feel finishes it off so nicely, especially in this beautiful chocolate pointelle jersey fabric. This scalloped edge is surprisingly easy to create and if you fancy having a go at it yourself, I have a YouTube short sharing ‘how to’ here. I’m addicted and am going to be adding this to all of my jersey makes from now on I think.

    Pattern: Agnes Top Tilly and the Buttons

    Why I Love Re-Using Patterns

    One thing I talk about in the video is the power of going back to patterns you already own and making them feel fresh. A stripe fabric, a slight tweak or change, a new season’s styling, it’s amazing what you can do without spending a penny on a new pattern.

    If you’re building a handmade spring wardrobe, I’d really encourage you to dig through what you’ve already got before hitting “buy.” Chances are you’ve got a pattern that could work perfectly with a seasonal fabric swap or a subtle design change.

    Outfit Ideas From These 4 Makes

    Here’s how I’ve been wearing these new makes together:

    • Stripe Jarrah sweater & handmade Dawn jeans – effortless casual, great for weekends
    • Denim shirt + handmade crochet lace Lana skirt – I’d wear this out for a drink!
    • Ready to wear rib knit top & Protea pants – super comfy but a little ‘French chic’ at the same time
    • Agnes top & handmade gathered skirt – floaty and cool for a warm spring day! I have a tutorial over on YouTube for how to sew this skirt and you can find it here.

    Watch the Full Video

    Want to see all four makes styled and hear more about the sewing process? Head over to YouTube to watch the full video, links to all the patterns and fabrics are in the video description.

    Watch: My Dream Spring Handmade Wardrobe Is Coming Together

    What’s on your spring sewing list? Let me know in the comments I’d love to hear what you’re making.

    Happy sewing!

    Sally xx

  • My 2025 Sewing Makes – Everything I Sewed, Loved & Learned

    At the end of every year, I love looking back through what I’ve made — not just to admire the pretty things (although let’s be honest, that’s part of it 👀), but to notice patterns in what I actually wear, what worked well, and what I’d do differently next time.

    So here it is: everything I made in 2025. There’s a lot of viscose, a lot of stripes, and more Tyra Trousers than any one person strictly needs… but I regret nothing.

    Grab a cup of tea and let’s get into it. 🧵☕

    Note: You can find links to all of the pattern and fabrics I mention in my ‘Reviewing 2025’ YouTube video here and if you love reviewing and planning as much as I do, you can download my FREE printable ‘Sewing year in Review’ checklist over on Patreon (you will need to sign up as a free member to access).

    The Tops (because I clearly love sewing tops)

    I kicked things off with two Agnes Tops by Tilly and the Buttons — one in a brown rib knit jersey and another in a cream pointelle. The Agnes is such a solid wardrobe basic, and both of these get worn all the time. The pointelle version feels especially lovely and delicate, and it pairs beautifully with high-waisted trousers and as a layering piece underneath shirts and knits.

    I also made:

    • A hacked Sagebrush Top (Friday Pattern Company) in embroidered cotton – floaty, pretty, and perfect with jeans on warm early spring days. (You can watch the full sew-along video for this hack over on my Patreon by the way).
    • Almy Blouse (Style Arc) in floral viscose lawn – I absolutely love this Lady McElroy floral print!
    • Nephaline Blouse (Viviene Chen) in floral viscose crepe – a new pattern to me that I think will become a firm favourite.
    • Patina Blouse (Friday Pattern Co.) in gingham cotton gauze – A High Street inspired top. I’ve had my eye on this Atelier Brunette gingham for ages so it was good to have a reason to finally buy it.
    • Ashton Top (Helen’s Closet) as part of a matching set (more on that later 👀).

    I’m noticing a theme here: breathable fabrics, relaxed silhouettes, and things I can throw on without thinking too hard.

    Dresses I Actually Wear

    I made a lot of dresses this year — and honestly, I wore most of them regularly in summer time, which feels like a win.

    Some highlights:

    • Annabelle Dress (Style Arc) in floral viscose – who doesn’t love a pretty wrap dress
    • Darling Ranges Dress v.3 (Megan Nielsen) in floral viscose linen. The Darling Ranges Dress is one of my most used sewing patterns but before last year I had never sewn version 3!
    • Pippa Dress (Sew Over It) in floral viscose another firm favourite dress pattern of mine
    • Taika Blouse Dress (Named) in stripe cotton. Another High Street inspired sew
    • Tess T-Shirt Dress (Closet Core) — an easy everyday staple – great for layering

    I’m definitely noticing a shift towards more simple silhouettes in my sewing where dresses are concerned. There’s not a gathered or fit and flare dress is sight! I always find the way our styles change over the years super interesting…!

    Playsuits, Shorts & Summer Sewing

    Summer sewing was very much about comfort and ease.

    I made two Safiya playsuits from Tilly and the Buttons’ Make It Simple book using viscoses from my stash — practical, wearable, and great for hot days. These were perfect on our dream family holiday to Florida!

    I also hacked:

    • The Blanca Flight Suit (Closet Core) into a playsuit with shorts in viscose twill — one of my favourite hacks of the year (see Patreon for the full sew along video).

    Other summer makes:

    • Ashton Top + Safiya Trousers shorts in floral broderie anglaise — dreamy fabric, lovely set.
    • Safiya Shorts + Logan Shacket (Style Arc) as a co-ord in stripe cotton lawn. I do love a co-ord.
    • Tyra Trousers hacked into shorts in gingham washed linen — because I love the Tyra’s, clearly!

    The Reign of the Tyra Trousers

    Let’s address the elephant in the room. I sewed a LOT of Tyra Trousers by Ploen Patterns this year (what’s new):

    • Beige linen
    • Grey wool
    • Gingham washed linen (shorts hack)

    They fit, they suit my style, and I reach for them constantly — which is exactly what you want from a pattern. If a pattern earns repeat use, it’s doing something right. I also find this pattern great for tweaking and changing the waistband into either flat or drawstring and it works so well as shorts too (as I discovered this year!).

    I also made Winnie Trousers (Tilly and the Buttons) in brown check, which were a really nice change of silhouette from my usual wide leg while still fitting into my wardrobe and working well with a lot of what I already own.

    Cosy Knits & Lounge Wear

    Autumn and winter sewing leaned heavily into comfort.

    I made:

    • Jarrah Sweater (Megan Nielsen) in green stripe sweatshirt fabric by Meet Milk
    • Jarrah Sweater again as part of a crochet lace knit set with the Lana Skirt (Sew Over It) — a fun experiment and something a bit different
    • Toaster Sweater (Sew House 7) in stripe French terry
    • Toaster Sweater in cream Lima knit
    • Toaster Sweater / Coco Top mash-up in stripe French terry

    I also sewed a lounge set using the Jarrah Sweater + Tyra Trousers in cream waffle knit, which has quickly become my “I’m at home but still want to feel put-together” outfit.

    Bags, Skirts & Outerwear

    Not everything was clothing (but most was)!

    Amelia Bomber Jacket (Wardrobe by Me) — a slightly braver make, and one I’m really proud of. I loved sewing this up with my Patreon members.

    Xenta Tote (Forget Me Not Patterns) in cream cotton canvas – practical and sturdy

    White gathered skirt with pockets in broderie anglaise – self-drafted and probably one of the best fitting skirts I own!

    What I Learned From Sewing All This

    Looking back, a few things really stand out:

    • I wear simple shapes in beautiful fabrics far more than complicated designs.
    • Repeat patterns are a good thing — they save on fitting time and deliver predictable results.
    • Matching sets make getting dressed easier (and feel intentional).
    • Sewing for my real life — not a fantasy wardrobe — leads to far fewer regrets.

    Looking Ahead

    I’m heading into the new year with a clearer idea of what I actually love wearing and sewing. Expect more wardrobe workhorses, fewer “just because” projects, and lots of thoughtful fabric choices.

    If you’d like to hear me chat through these makes in more detail (including a photo of every single make), you can watch the full video over on YouTube, where I share my favourites, flops, and plans for the year ahead (and also get a bit more personal about what went a bit wrong at the end of the year!).

    And I’d love to know — what was your favourite make this year?

    Happy sewing,
    Sally x

    Ps. Don’t forget to subscribe to my mailing list for more sewing tips!!

  • The One Thing That Helps Me Sew Great-Fitting Clothes

    And why most beginners overlook it (I did too)…

    If you’ve ever finished a sewing project only to feel as though it looks nothing like it does on the pattern model, you’re not alone! It was one of the most frustrating things I found as a sewing beginner – until something clicked! Now, I use one simple process that (for the most part) leads to clothes that fit well, feel great, and look how I want them to look.

    And the best part?
    I’m not a fitting expert and this method doesn’t require fancy tools, expensive courses, or advanced sewing skills.

    The One Thing: I Always Check the Finished Garment Measurements

    Yes — that’s it.

    It sounds basic, but it has absolutely transformed my sewing.

    As a beginner, I only looked at the body measurement chart, and chose the size that most closely matched my bust/waist/hip and cut the pattern. I then pretty much hoped for the best!!

    But the finished garment measurements tell you the real story.

    They reveal:

    • How the garment will actually fit once sewn
    • How much ease (extra room for movement and style) the designer added
    • Whether the final piece will be fitted, relaxed, oversized, or boxy
    • Whether you should size up, size down, or blend sizes. And if you’re in between sizes this can sometimes save you some work!
    • And, most importantly, whether the garment will feel like YOU when you wear it.
    • Bonus point: They also give you an insight as to whether you can play around with sizing for a completely different look and feel when you get really confident 👀

    Why Finished Garment Measurements Matter So Much

    Think of finished measurements as a little sneak peek of what your future garment will look like.

    Let’s say your bust is 96 cm. The pattern’s size chart tells you Size 12 is drafted for 96 cm — so naturally, you might choose that.

    But when you check the finished bust measurement, you notice the garment measures:

    • 104 cm (relaxed fit)
    • or 120 cm (oversized)
    • or 96 cm (zero ease!)

    Each one creates a totally different garment.
    Same size, same body… but completely different look and feel.

    Once you start comparing your own preferred fit and how YOU like to wear your clothes with the finished garment measurements, your sewing becomes more intentional — and the fit improves dramatically.

    It Also Helps You Predict the Style (Before You Sew It!)

    This is where things get exciting – and where there is the most room to play around with look and feel!

    Checking finished measurements tells you whether the pattern will give:

    • a fitted silhouette
    • a slim fit
    • a boxy shape
    • a swishy, floaty outline
    • or a dramatic oversized look

    YOU get to decide whether that style is something you’ll actually wear and love or whether you want to change it to be more YOU.

    This is how you avoid those “it looks great on the model, but terrible on me” moments.

    Remember, pattern designers don’t tell you which size the model is wearing on the pattern image or what amendments to fit they may or may not have made to get the finished look. For the most part, it’s down to you to make those tweaks and changes yourself in order to get a fit you’re happy with.

    If I chose sizes based on the body measurement chart alone, half the clothes I make wouldn’t fit me well and I wouldn’t feel comfortable wearing them because the designer’s idea of “relaxed” or “fitted” often isn’t my idea — and it might not be yours either.

    Learning this changed everything about how I sew, and it’s genuinely been the difference between sewing a wardrobe of clothes I’m ‘meh’ about and a wardrobe of clothes I love to wear.

    Want to Learn Exactly How I Choose My Size?

    In this blog post, I’m sharing with you one of the most important mindset shifts I’ve had in my sewing — the thing that truly changed my thought process when it came to achieving better fit.

    I’d love to share with you the step-by-step method I personally use every time I come to sew something new, including:

    • how I take accurate measurements
    • how I evaluate ease
    • how I decide between two sizes
    • how I use finished garment measurements and line drawings to create a garment that suits my personal style
    • and the printable cheat sheet I use myself…

    …if you’d like that full breakdown you can access it all over on my Patreon community.

    Patreon members get:
    ✔ The full “Exactly how I choose my size” video
    ✔ A printable two-page cheat sheet checklist
    ✔ Bonus sewing resources and an extra monthly video

    ✔ Ad free early access to my weekly YouTube videos
    ✔ Access to a private sewing community (ask questions and get answers to all of your sewing queries)

    If you’d like to feel more confident choosing pattern sizes — and finally sew pieces that fit beautifully — you can join us here!


    Final Thoughts

    If you remember just one thing from this post, I hope it will be this:

    Finished garment measurements are your best friend.
    They help you predict the fit, shape, comfort, and style of a garment before you cut a single piece of fabric.

    Start checking them with every project, and your sewing will change — I promise.

    I hope this has been helpful! I’d love to hear your experience with fitting your handmade garments in the comments below 👇

    Happy sewing!!

    Sally xx